Import, Export, Coffee Galore!
10 Aug 2024
Coffee lovers often take for granted the complex journey their favorite beverage takes from its origin to their cups. Howard Barwick, European Business Development Manager at Covoya, a coffee trading company, sheds light on the multifaceted process and the role of traders and brokers in bringing coffee from farms around the world to consumers.
The journey of coffee begins at the farm, often located in countries with rich coffee-growing traditions. Farmers either working independently or as part of cooperatives, grow, harvest, and process the coffee beans. From here, Covoya navigates the intricate path to your cup. There are three main “trails” that a green trader follows to procure coffee: the philosophical trail, the paper trail, and the physical trail.
Step One: The Philosophical Trail
The philosophical trail revolves around the motivation behind purchasing specific coffees. Barwick explains that they buy coffee for different reasons depending on the origin. It could be because the coffee is exceptional, there’s customer demand, or they want to expand the stock from a particular region.
Coffee bags being loaded on trucks at the farm La Chacra d'Dago, Perù
Step Two: The Paper Trail
Once the need for a particular coffee is identified, the green trader directly communicates with farmers, especially if they handle their exports. Often, Covoya collaborates with its local teams, part of its parent group, OFI, which has a presence in most coffee-producing countries. These teams, consisting of agronomists and professionals, provide on-the-ground support, ensuring a seamless procurement process.
Step Three: The Physical Trail
The physical trail encompasses the logistics of transporting coffee from the origin to its final destination. Traders often take care of all import documentation, fees, and logistics to ensure the coffee reaches its warehouse in prime condition. Contracts with final roasters are established, whether the coffee is pre-sold or not. Covoya also mitigates market risks and currency fluctuations by fixing consumer prices, thus shielding them from price volatility.
Green coffee at the farm La Chacra d'Dago, Perù
Specialty vs. Commercial Coffee
Howard Barwick highlights the distinctive nature of the specialty coffee sector compared to commercial coffee. Specialty coffee is defined by its traceability, honesty in marketing, and focus on quality. “Specialty coffee has more than one definition, action, or circumstance. It’s the summation of many discrete occurrences, some planned and some circumstantial,” says Barwick.
In the specialty sector, marketing at origin involves telling the unique story of the coffee’s origin, emphasizing its traceability and the integrity of its production. This is particularly challenging when dealing with centralized national coffee boards. Transparency and honesty are key in marketing to consumers, ensuring that the story of the coffee’s journey is told without embellishment.
The Role of Traders
Henry Clifford, a senior coffee trader at DRWakefield, another prominent coffee trading company, emphasizes building long-term relationships with producers. “Our goal is to maximize value at origin and find roasting companies that share our values,” Clifford notes. This often involves working closely with producers to purchase their entire output, not just the premium micro lots, to ensure sustainability and resilience for the farmers.
Henry Clifford in Honduras at the Slow Food Community Las Capucas Sustainable Coffee Village
DRWakefield imports coffee from 25 different countries, tailoring their supply to match the diverse needs of their customers, from large companies buying containers to small roasteries purchasing single bags. The company’s strategy focuses on importing rather than exporting, leaving more value in producing countries.
Challenges in Coffee Trading
Both Barwick and Clifford acknowledge the numerous challenges in the coffee trading business. Issues like high humidity in containers, shipping delays, and strikes can disrupt the supply chain. “Problem-solving is a significant part of our job,” says Clifford, illustrating the coffee trade’s dynamic and often unpredictable nature.
The journey of coffee from farm to cup is a complex and collaborative effort involving farmers, traders, brokers, and roasters. Companies like Covoya and DRWakefield play a crucial role in ensuring that consumers receive high-quality coffee while supporting sustainable practices at the origin. Understanding this journey enhances appreciation for each cup of coffee.
Be the Change, Join Slow Food
Get involved in similar initiatives by joining our grassroots movement! Slow Food cultivates an international network of local chapters made of more than 1 million members and across 150 countries that host educational events and advocacy campaigns, and build solidarity through partnerships.
Join the Slow Food Coffee Coalition today and be a part of our mission for a brighter coffee future.
By signing the Manifesto, you’ll receive the SFCC newsletter with stories, news and tips directly in your inbox every month.
Change the world through food
Learn how you can restore ecosystems, communities and your own health with our RegenerAction Toolkit.