Facing the Crisis on Legumes: The Slow Beans Recipe for Resistance
Recap of the “Facing the Crisis One Legume at a Time: The Slow Beans Recipe for Resistance” Conference – Saturday, Sept 28, 2024
29 Sep 2024
The Slow Beans Network took center stage today at the “Facing the Crisis One Legume at a Time” conference in Terra Madre, bringing together experts, cooks, and producers to explore the role of legumes in transforming food systems. The conference featured panelists from diverse fields who shared their insights on the value of legumes in improving human and planetary health, fostering agroecological practices, and innovating in culinary traditions.
Ska Moteane: Legumes as a “Low-Hanging Fruit” for Sustainability
Ska Moteane, an award-winning chef from Lesotho, set the tone by emphasizing the vast potential of legumes in driving sustainable change. According to Moteane, legumes are often overlooked but present an affordable, nutritious, and versatile solution to food insecurity and environmental challenges.
Her “Plant the Future” campaign calls on cooks to act as agents of change by promoting plant-based diets—not to eliminate meat but to introduce more diverse, sustainable options like legumes into people’s diets. Moteane advocated for initiatives like “Meatless Monday,” which can help shift the narrative and encourage consumers to recognize legumes not only as food for the poor but as a wealth of nutrition. She stressed the need for cooks to influence public perception and decision-making, particularly as legumes are highly versatile and can be used in everything from stews to millin flours.
Daniele Antichi & Camilla Moonen: Agroecology and the Role of Legumes in Sustainable Farming
Professors Daniele Antichi and Camilla Moonen, both from the University of Pisa, delved into the scientific and ecological importance of legumes in farming systems. They presented data showing an increase in legume consumption in Italy and across Europe, alongside challenges related to imports and exports.
Antichi highlighted the Slow Beans initiative, which seeks to preserve endangered legume varieties through agroecological approaches. This method, which focuses on reducing dependence on chemical fertilizers, makes use of legumes’ unique ability to fix nitrogen, enriching the soil naturally. Moonen expanded on this by explaining how legumes foster biodiversity at various levels—genetic, species, and ecosystem. She described crop rotation systems in which legumes play a central role, underscoring that agroecology is not a return to old methods but a modern, holistic approach to sustainable farming.
Eliana Cifuentes: Indigenous Wisdom and Women as Guardians of Legume Seeds
Chilean legume producer Eliana Cifuentes offered a heartfelt perspective on the role of indigenous communities in safeguarding legume biodiversity. Cifuentes grows a mix of crops, including legumes, potatoes, and garlic, using environmentally friendly techniques like natural fertilizers derived from seaweed. She stressed that women in many communities hold the knowledge passed down through generations about seed saving and sustainable agriculture.
Cifuentes warned of the harmful impacts of large industries, such as salmon farming, on local ecosystems, and urged a return to working in harmony with nature. She also shared practical tips for conserving endangered legume varieties, emphasizing the urgent need for collaboration between traditional wisdom and modern science.
Marcin Popielarz: Reviving Legumes in Polish Cuisine
Polish chef Marcin Popielarz from Relais and Chateaux brought a culinary perspective to the conversation, sharing how legumes have long been an integral part of Polish cuisine. He spoke of the ancient recipes that featured legumes, describing them as a fundamental part of Poland’s culinary history. One of the most prominent varieties he discussed was the “Beautiful John” bean, a member of the Ark of Taste initiative that is celebrated for its flavor and protein content.
Popielarz explained how his hotel restaurant now draws 60% of its protein from legumes, reflecting a broader trend in Poland, which has become the fourth-largest market for vegan products in Europe. He also introduced an innovative startup by some of his close friends producing dairy alternatives using legume milk, demonstrating the creativity required to reinvent traditional ingredients in modern contexts.
According to Popielarz, chefs have a crucial role in promoting legume consumption, working alongside farmers and schools to educate communities on the value of these foods. Innovation, he said, comes not just from creativity but from a fusion of tradition, sustainability, and science.
Key Takeaways
The conference shed light on legumes as powerful tools for addressing multiple crises—climate change, food insecurity, and biodiversity loss. By bridging the gap between ancient agricultural practices and modern science, legumes are positioned as central to agroecology and sustainable food systems.
From the perspective of producers like Eliana Cifuentes to chefs like Marcin Popielarz, the discussions reaffirmed the idea that legumes are not just a humble staple but a key ingredient in shaping the future of food. As Daniele Antichi and Camilla Moonen pointed out, legumes can improve soil health, reduce dependence on synthetic fertilizers, and bolster food security. In the kitchen, as Ska Moteane and Marcin Popielarz demonstrated, legumes offer endless culinary possibilities that can delight modern palates while nourishing both people and the planet.
The Slow Beans network continues to gain momentum, encouraging collaboration between farmers, chefs, scientists, and consumers in pursuit of a more sustainable and resilient food system.
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